The images show young women dressed in Fashion black holding signs which list Essence Magazine's proud history of black Fashion Directors: Susan Taylor, Agnes B. Cammock, Sandra Martin, Pamela Macklin, Ionia Dunn Lee, many whom I've had the pleasure of working with. The signs read..."I Am..." signifying the fact that the next great black Fashion Director is out there, and according to many, being ignored by the masses.
The silent walk from Time Warner to Lincoln Center has been seen as an homage to black Fashion Directors and a brave display of criticism for the lack of black women in director positions at the top magazines. Michaela even captioned one of the images "Fashion Activism: Cool & Compassionate." She called it "a tribute, a message."
The images followed a Facebook post, in which Michaela wrote:
This is Fashion Week. For the 1rst time in its 40yr history Essence magazine doesn't have a black Fashion Director. There're several un or under employed completely or over qualified black candidates. There're no blacks holding the top spot at any top magazine. Who would imagine in the era of Michelle O when it comes ...to diversity, Fashion Week would get even weaker?
While many may condemn these women for their efforts, it's important to acknowledge the lack of diversity in fashion. African-American magazines, besides Arise, Essence Magazine and Ebony Magazine, are all but ignored. Recently, Proenza Schouler released an inflammatory, controversial video lampooning black women via The Fashion Bomb. About the video, a critic tweeted "They can't offend black customers. They don't have any." Gasp.
Only time will tell if more black models will gain a presence on the Spring 2011 Fashion Week runways. Racism in the fashion industry is not imagined; it's real.
But is this tribute march the right way to address, and combat, it? Discuss. What's your opinion on the Fashion Director Protest?
Coutura
13 comments:
This is most definitely a subject that needs to be addressed.......i don't think it's enough to wait patiently in the corner for someone to notice your there......sometimes you have to get in some faces to be noticed. I think once it gets out there and more people are made aware, we can then move forward and begin to work towards a resolution.......and to those designers that think black people are not and do not want to customers for you......well I won't say it out loud but you probably already know what I'm thinking (and it's not anything flattering)
Even with a bad economy for most designers and their advertisers it's still business as usual. The proper way and only way to protest them is to stop supporting them by not buying their magazines,clothing, shoes and accessories. That's simple enough, isn't it?
If I may give you my honest and uncensored opinion.. I think Michaela Angela Davis' issue with the hiring of Placas as Essence's fashion director boils down to racism plain and simple. Her issue has been that Placas is white, and not that she's not qualified, not that she isn't doing a good job in stepping up Essence's fashion game and delivering it to its readers, not that she hasn't helped aspiring black designers. It's because she's white and Davis' tunnel vision mind, it "should've" been a black person to get the job. I have found her to be extremely disrespectful to Angela Burt-Murray, doubting, questioning and judging her position, decisions and expertise. What happened to sisters lifting sisters up Michaela? Davis has publicly blasted Angela over this and it's sickening.
I also think Michaela's own insecurities over her light complexion are the driving force behind these over the top, dramatic outburts she has: "a girlfriend has died." She overly compensates to be "down" and to assure others (herself) that she's one of us. I think this protest is just another example of this.
No doubt the fashion industry is lacking in color overall. THAT should've been the message to deliver if there was one to be. Not continuing to bully Elliana Placas or Angela for their positions at Essence.
It has nothing to do with racism. Michaela is a voice for everyone BLACK woman. She is a role model for young black women to use their voice whether or not people will like it. It's not about the fact that Essence hired a white fashion director, its about that fact that since Essence doesnt have a black fashion director, there are no other black people in that postion throughout the industry. Address the issue. Its 2010, Essence should not be the only place with a black person is in that position. Since that's all we have, its sacred and should be guarded with everything we got to represent the people who fought to make it possible.
Whoa Rae... Sounds like you have a personal grudge against Michaela angela Davis. Simmer down sis. If you want love to be spread, be the change that you'd like to see.
There had to be a non-Black Fashion Director hired at Essence. Otherwise, how would the average Jane know - as you point out - "the fashion industry is lacking in color overall." We can't get enough attention on the issue UNTIL someone like Michaela draws our attention to the fact that the only DEFINITE Black woman at fashion week is no longer a guarantee. Both Elliana Placas and Angela are big girls and can speak for themselves. Michaela isn't the only woman that was jarred by their choice. She's just the only one with a voice/opinion mainstream media will hear.
When Elliana is on a red carpet somewhere representing Essence somewhere and the reporter sticks a mic in her face and asks what Black women think about (fill in the blank)'s line... you, me and the rest of the sisters across the country are going to lean in and wait for the answer. She won't know. She'll have to start asking some Black women. Period.
However anyone wants to play around with semantics, it's racism to judge a person for the color of their skin. Period. What Michaela has been supporting is racism, the very same racism she opposes when it comes to white mainstream media.
Salloamazing: I have no personal grudge against Michaela. She simply rubs me the wrong way and I (and many others) don't want her to be the voice that America hears as a representation of black women. Ironic and hypocritical for you to tell me to simmer down and that Angela and Elliana are big girls, they can defend themselves, when you're hell bent on defending Michaela (a big girl) and telling me what I should think and feel. Also hypocritical for Michaela to supposedly be the voice for all black women but she's had no issue with attacking Angela's decision.
It's fashion!!! Elliana isn't the Beauty Director for Essence, she does the clothes. The last time I checked black women weren't made from 1 cookie cutter mold where we all dress alike or have the same fashion sense. Clearly we don't! With the example you gave, what would say a black fashion director have to say when Town & Country asks her about their majority white readership? IT CAN CLEARLY GO BOTH WAYS.
For you or Michaela to assume "there had to be a qualified black person for the job" is absurd and foolish. Neither of you were part of the interview process and neither of you are privy to the black applicants who were OFFERED the position and DECLINED it.
I'm confused neither susan nor sandra martin were ever fashion directors and agnes's name was spelled wrong...embarassing. I get the visceral reaction but why haven't they been marching in front of the white magazines doors all these years with the same effort? Or the designers stores? Companies? Does this mean they have been content with only having spots @ the aforementioned black magazines? If you take on essence take on others who have also not been inclusive?
Wow Rae I just read your comments and your dead on. The funny thing is if michaela is so a great representative for black folks why did she hire a white creative director @ honey. Her argument is honey wasn't black woman's magazine but a magazine with an urban aesthetic. Total cop-out. Creative directors determine the look of a magazine and honey most definitely was supposed to be a younger version of essence. Secondly, she's so empowering to young black girls but she did a fashion feature in vibe for the r kelly issue I think 2000 called pimps and hos. Teaching young black women and men how to look like pimps and hos, huh? WTH? So what's so empowering about that. Also she's a hypocrite writing an essay a month prior about her daughter joining a white sorority and saying it's ok. Ok so elliana joined a black sorority. Obviously it ain't ok. And yes, rae it's something about light skin women with issues who feel a need to be oongawa black power to the umpteenth degree to compensate for lack of melanin. Not all lightskin women but I definitely feel michaela fits the bill. And is it me or could this be payback becuz allegedly she was fired by angela. Hmmm...sounds like a personal agenda to me.
And furthermore what would the world think if they knew susan taylor's in the spirit column was written by her then WHITE managing editor? Every once in a while her husband kephra would write it. Believe folks perception is a deception. There's no way for folks to know who angela might have approached about this position before deciding on elliana. I am not saying I don't understand the reaction but I don't believe michaela handled this the right way. Her actions are for public glorification--a personal agenda--not for the future pimps and hos she tried to cultivate in 2000. I wouldn't want my young black daughter following such a hypocritical leader. Folks need to research and find out the facts before they side with anyone.
And one more thing about past essence eaders. How come no one spoke out when susan taylor publicly told the media the reason they hired a black female editor from canada to run suede is because there were nop qualified black women in the states? I remember being very hurt that miss in the spirit cosigned the very thought that white media has about Black women all because of her ego becuz she had nothing to do with the hiring of that woman and nor did that woman report to her. So again b4 u become critical of angela's decision think about the former essence leaders you never so much and know there are not as uplifting and empowering to black women as you think.
Anonymous I think I'm in love with you LOL. I saw Agnes' name spelled incorrectly and thought rushed and embarrassing too. I also don't understand why this march (Michaela calls it a tribute, most everyone else a protest) targeted Essence. Why didn’t she organize a protest in response to the injustices she’s spoke about other magazines not hiring black directors? If that’s the REAL issue then why the hell wasn’t this statement made to them? It does appear Michaela has a personal agenda with Angela (didn’t know about the firing rumor but makes even more sense now) and Essence. It also appears that the magnification of Essence's wrong doing (gasp! a white woman) is a means of Michaela advancing her own kumbaya image to the public and media while concealing her real agenda.
She’s been a hypocrite and will flip the script to advance and promote herself whenever necessary. Yup I’m talking about Honey.. what there were no qualified black people then?, about her Take Back the Music initiative with Essence but then later supporting the artists who use ‘ho, bitch’ in their songs, about breaking bread with D.L. Hughley after he called Rutgers women’s basketball players ugly hoes. WTF? I kind of remember the R Kelly pimps and hos spread in Vibe, do you have a link for that?
I LOLed when I read the white sorority story in Essence! For all her down with the people, fight the power sentiments and displays, her daughter went the other direction. Ain’t that something that by article end she understood that her daughter found sisterhood with them, but hell to the no that Elliana should join our sisterhood.
I didn’t know about Susan Taylor’s column was written by the white editor and her husband!! Now that’s some shit! I do remember her publicly claiming there were no qualified black women here for Suede and remember having are you for real Susan? moment. I don’t remember Michaela getting up in arms over it… but since Susan has helped Michaela with her career, it wasn’t worth it to her tarnish her fairy godmother’s image .
Do your research folks. The loudest person isn’t always (seldom are) the most righteous.
Anonymous I think I'm in love with you LOL. I saw Agnes' name spelled incorrectly and thought rushed and embarrassing too. I also don't understand why this march (Michaela calls it a tribute, most everyone else a protest) targeted Essence. Why didn’t she organize a protest in response to the injustices she’s spoke about other magazines not hiring black directors? If that’s the REAL issue then why the hell wasn’t this statement made to them? It does appear Michaela has a personal agenda with Angela (didn’t know about the firing rumor but makes even more sense now) and Essence. It also appears that the magnification of Essence's wrong doing (gasp! a white woman) is a means of Michaela advancing her own kumbaya image to the public and media while concealing her real agenda.
She’s been a hypocrite and will flip the script to advance and promote herself whenever necessary. Yup I’m talking about Honey.. what there were no qualified black people then?, about her Take Back the Music initiative with Essence but then later supporting the artists who use ‘ho, bitch’ in their songs, about sitting down with D.L. Hughley on his show after he called Rutgers women’s basketball players ugly hoes. WTF? I kinda remember the R Kelly spread in Vibe, you have a link?
I LOLed when I read the white sorority story in Essence! For all her down with the people, fight the power sentiments and displays, her daughter went the other direction. Ain’t that something that by article end she understood that her daughter found sisterhood with them, but hell to the no that Elliana should join our sisterhood.
I didn’t know about Susan Taylor’s column was written by the white editor and her husband!! Now that’s some shit! I do remember her publicly claiming there were no qualified black women here for Suede and remember having are you for real Susan? moment. I don’t remember Michaela getting up in arms over it… but since Susan has helped Michaela with her career, it wasn’t worth it to her tarnish her fairy godmother’s image .
Do your research folks. The loudest person isn’t always (seldom are) the most righteous.
sallomazing you're gonna need to fall back with calling everyone who doesn't love michaela like cooked food a hater. cause you'll be calling a lot of folks that and it just ain't so.
let me tell you some things about michaela angela davis. this wack ass movement against essence is because angela fired her ass within days of becoming michaela's boss. michaela wasn't bringing it to essence and she didn't want to take orders or direction from angela. michaela was a diva and acted like she was there to school everybody. so angela gave her the pink slip. this bullshit is michaela's personal vendetta against angela and her little mentees are suckers for falling for her excuse of it being anything else.
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