Fashion Week Protest: Tribute March for Black Fashion Directors Inspired by Michaela Angela Davis

Michaela Angela Davis posted these photos on her Facebook page tonight:

The images show young women dressed in Fashion black holding signs which list Essence Magazine's proud history of black Fashion Directors: Susan Taylor, Agnes B. Cammock, Sandra Martin, Pamela Macklin, Ionia Dunn Lee, many whom I've had the pleasure of working with. The signs read..."I Am..." signifying the fact that the next great black Fashion Director is out there, and according to many, being ignored by the masses.

The silent walk from Time Warner to Lincoln Center has been seen as an homage to black Fashion Directors and a brave display of criticism for the lack of black women in director positions at the top magazines. Michaela even captioned one of the images "Fashion Activism: Cool & Compassionate." She called it "a tribute, a message."

The images followed a Facebook post, in which Michaela wrote:

This is Fashion Week. For the 1rst time in its 40yr history Essence magazine doesn't have a black Fashion Director. There're several un or under employed completely or over qualified black candidates. There're no blacks holding the top spot at any top magazine. Who would imagine in the era of Michelle O when it comes ...to diversity, Fashion Week would get even weaker?

While many may condemn these women for their efforts, it's important to acknowledge the lack of diversity in fashion. African-American magazines, besides Arise, Essence Magazine and Ebony Magazine, are all but ignored. Recently, Proenza Schouler released an inflammatory, controversial video lampooning black women via The Fashion Bomb. About the video, a critic tweeted "They can't offend black customers. They don't have any." Gasp.

Only time will tell if more black models will gain a presence on the Spring 2011 Fashion Week runways. Racism in the fashion industry is not imagined; it's real.

But is this tribute march the right way to address, and combat, it? Discuss. What's your opinion on the Fashion Director Protest?

Coutura

Magazine Glam: ESSENCE's Best Cover in Months Featuring Iman, Naomi Campbell and Liya Kebede

Iman, Naomi Campbell, Liya Kebede. Now THOSE are cover subjects worth celebrating.

The black supermodel trio graces the September issue, which also happens to be the 'Fashion' issue of most every magazine and ESSENCE's 40th Anniversary cover.

There's something about seeing three beautiful, successful, acclaimed models that just fills me with pride. These women are powerhouses in an industry that has never been too kind to people of color, and that is surely something to celebrate!

Iman has set the stage for how to transition a career as a model to a business mogul with her successful enterprises, Iman Cosmetics and Global Chic. Naomi, with her legal troubles and recent appearance in court over blood diamonds, will be forever lauded as one of the best models to walk the runway, of any color. And Liya Kebede is a global ambassador for Maternal, Newborn and Child Health through the World Health Organization.

This is also the debut issue of ESSENCE's controversial hire, white Fashion Director, Elliana Placas, so I'm sure the inside Fashion pages will receive lots of attention from both sides of the argument. Not certain that Elliana styled the cover (for the last six months while she served as a Freelance Director, and the prior three months where a black Fashion Director was in place, the covers were styled by a freelance stylist), but neutral is inarguably one of the season's biggest, most celebrated trends.

What do you think of the cover?

Discuss.

Kisses,

Coutura

ESSENCE Editor-in-Chief Speaks on White Fashion Director Controversy

As we reported on Monday, ESSENCE Magazine has been under fire as of late for hiring a white Fashion Director, Ellianna Placas. Powerful media figures like Michaela Angela Davis, former Fashion Editor at ESSENCE Magazine, and Nawja Moses, media personality, have both spoken out about the issue. The one voice we hadn't heard from? ESSENCE Editor-in-Chief Angela Burt-Murray.


After reaching out to the ESSENCE PR department and not receiving a response, we stumbled across a quote Burt-Murray shared with Media Ink:


"I understand that this issue has struck an emotional chord with our audience. However, I selected [Placas], who has been contributing to the magazine on a freelance basis for the last six months, because of her creativity, vision, the positive reader response to her work and her enthusiasm and respect for the audience and our brand. We remain committed to celebrating the unique beauty and style of African-American women in ESSENCE Magazine and online at ESSENCE.com."


I applaud Angela Burt-Murray for standing by and defending her decision. What do you think of her statement?


Also, last night Bryan Boy from the popular blog of the same name, tweeted:


How racist is this Michaela Angela Davis woman? http://bit.ly/9M3PGG So what if a white woman is capable of handling a black magazine?


It seems several people are crying reverse racism in response to the uproar about ESSENCE's white director. I feel they are missing the point. No one is saying Placas is not capable.


The overarching concern of women who have voiced disapproval is that the fashion industry, as a whole, is still very one-sided with white people occupying the majority of the top positions at major magazines. 


If the industry was more diverse as a whole, then a white Fashion Director at an African-American magazine would feel different I believe. But the reality is there aren't nearly as many opportunities as there should be for fashion editors of color in this business. And the hiring of Ellianna Placas means there is one less opportunity for African-Americans in the fashion industry, at a magazine that, as Burt-Murray said, "celebrates...African-American women."


One of our readers captured the sentiment best:


"What sticks out vividly in my head is come fashion week the chair that says "Essence Mag Fashion Director" will have a white woman sitting there amongst her peers whom are all white. Not a black face in site. Its truly disheartening."


Do you agree with Bryan Boy that the backlash surrounding Ellianna Placas is "racist?" Discuss.


And see some of Placas' work on Ciara below via Necole Bitchie:

Kisses,


Coutura

Is The Rage At ESSENCE Hiring A White Fashion Director Validated?

Alright, Glamazons: by now we're sure that you've read all about the news of ESSENCE magazine hiring Ellianna Placas as the new fashion director. What's the big deal?

Well, Placas just happens to be a white woman and ESSENCE just happens to be a publication for black women by black women.

Can you see how this could be a bit of a controversy now?

As two former of employees of the mag, you'd be correct in thinking that Coutura and I were immediately saddened upon hearing the news. (Heck, Coutura even worked in the fashion department!) Since Agnes Cammock left the post several years ago, the mag has had some difficulty in finding a new hire. However, Coutura and I know for a fact that some of the top people in black fashion voiced that they'd never take that position due to its many restraints.

Finally one was found: Billie Causieestko, but she lasted for less than a year before being let go. The position has been open for quite some time and an interim person was placed in by Time, Inc until a replacement could be found.

Enter Placas, who apparently has several years' magazine experience at pubs such as O Magazine and US Weekly.

According to a post on The Fashion Bomb, Michaela Davis (a former fashion director at ESSENCE) expressed feelings of hurt and disappointment at the hiring of Placas.

ESSENCE's former Beauty and Cover Director Mikki Taylor told The Glamazons that she'd heard of the news about Placas' hire while in Los Angeles but had no comments to make about the matter.

What do I think? I think that it's a known fact that the fashion department at ESSENCE has been in shambles for a long time now. If Placas can come in and use her contacts in the fashion world to bring in more money for the mag, then that's a good thing, right?

However, when you think about the historical aspect (as Davis points out) that should be upheld by ESSENCE by hiring only black women, then it is a rather sad thing. This could never be possible anyhow considering that it's owned by Time, Inc which (by law) is an equal opportunity employer.

What do you think about this, Glamazons? Will you continue to read ESSENCE knowing that there's a white fashion director?

xo

Ferocia